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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.